Guelaguetza 2026: The Complete Guide to the Lunes del Cerro | Featured · Qué Onda Oaxaca
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Featured18 min readMay 12, 2026
Guelaguetza 2026: The Complete Guide to the Lunes del Cerro
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Dates, tickets, delegations, how to get there, where to stay — what locals know.
By
Dary / Qué Onda Oaxaca
18 min
View of the Auditorio Guelaguetza during a traditional dance by a china oaxaqueña. Photo: Visitmexico.com
Every July, Oaxaca becomes a different city. The streets fill with embroidered dresses, hotels double their prices, and the Cerro del Fortín transforms into the stage for what the government calls "the dance of indigenous cultures." There is something genuinely beautiful in all of that. There are also scalpers, taxis charging triple, bottles of water at 40 pesos, and a very real debate about whether what you're watching is a celebration or a performance of ethnic theater.
This guide is so you arrive informed about both.
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What Is the Guelaguetza and Where Does It Come From
The word guelaguetza comes from the Zapotec guendalizaa: to offer, to share, to give. It was not originally a stage festival. It was — and in many communities still is — a practice of mutual aid: if today I bring you corn, tomorrow you help me with the harvest. If today I dance at your celebration, tomorrow you dance at mine. A system of reciprocity that needs no admission price.
The celebration we know as a festival was created in 1932. Oaxaca had just suffered a devastating earthquake, and the government wanted to revitalize the local economy while commemorating the city's 400th anniversary. They took the pre-Hispanic rituals honoring the corn goddesses — which had already fused with the Feast of Carmel celebrations during the Colonial period — and organized them into what was then called "Homenaje Racial" (Racial Tribute): a celebration of the eight indigenous peoples of Oaxaca (Valles Centrales, Sierra Norte, Sierra Sur, Mixteca, Cañada, Papaloapan, Costa, and Istmo) presented as a spectacle to attract visitors.
The official version says this was a cultural rescue. The critical version says it was the first folklorization of something that was never a show.
Both are right about something.
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The Debate Nobody Wants to Have in July
There's no point pretending it doesn't exist. Every year, alongside the festival, come articles, public statements, and voices — many of them indigenous — pointing out the same thing: the official Guelaguetza increasingly resembles a tourism product and less a community practice.
In 2025, the state government spent more than 68 million pesos organizing the event, while several participating indigenous delegations reported difficulty covering their travel and costume costs. Palco ticket prices surpassed $20,000 pesos on resale platforms, and the government had to formally sue two of those platforms. El Espacio del Maíz, an Oaxacan civil organization, published something that kept circulating: "The Guelaguetza is not a spectacle to attract tourism. It is an act of anti-capitalist resistance."
Since 2006 — when the APPO and the teachers' movement confronted the state government — the Guelaguetza Popular has been organized by Section 22 of the SNTE: free, at the ITO stadium, as a direct response to the official format. It is not a minor event: it draws tens of thousands of people every year.
None of this means you should stay home in July. It means arriving with your eyes open is better than arriving with them closed.
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Each year, 16 delegations from the state's 8 regions ascend Cerro del Fortín to present dances, traditional dress, music, and offerings from their communities. The most anticipated moment: the throwing of tejate, mezcal, totopes, and flowers from the stage into the audience.
The 8 represented regions:
▸Cañada
▸Costa
▸Istmo
▸Mixteca
▸Papaloapan
▸Sierra Juárez
▸Sierra Sur
▸Valles Centrales
Map of Oaxaca's 8 regions that participate in the Guelaguetza. Photo: Wikipedia
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2026 Dates and Schedule
Official Guelaguetza 2026 image. Photo: Oaxaca State Government
The 2026 edition is the 94th Guelaguetza. The "Lunes del Cerro" (Mondays on the Hill) are the heart of the event. In 2026:
▸First Lunes del Cerro: Monday, July 20, 2026
▸Second Lunes del Cerro: Monday, July 27, 2026
Each day has two performances with officially confirmed times:
▸Morning performance: 10:00 AM
▸Afternoon performance: 5:00 PM
Donají... La Leyenda — complementary theatrical performance on Sundays July 19 and 26 at the Auditorio Guelaguetza (projected dates, confirm with SECTUR).
Free Civic Performance: generally the Sunday before the first Lunes del Cerro (July 19), at the Auditorio, with free access.
Guelaguetza does not cancel for rain. July in Oaxaca brings frequent afternoon showers. Bring a raincoat or poncho.
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The Auditorio Guelaguetza: What You Need to Know
Location: Cerro del Fortín, Colonia Dolores, Oaxaca de Juárez
Capacity: approximately 11,000 people
Auditorium sections — Official 2026 Prices:
▸Palco A — front center, facing the stage. Pre-sale: $1,476 MXN | Regular: $1,632 MXN (+ service charges)
▸Palco B — front lateral. Pre-sale: $1,166 MXN | Regular: $1,321 MXN (+ service charges)
▸Palco C — upper section, direct sun. Free (by arrival order)
▸Palco D — additional zones. Free (by arrival order)
Prices confirmed by SECTUR Oaxaca, May 2026. Maximum 2 tickets per user.
How to buy tickets (and avoid scams)
Guelaguetza ticket sale on SuperBoletos.com. Photo: Heraldodemexico.com.mxThe only authorized online ticket vendor is SuperBoletos.com.Official Guelaguetza 2026 pricing flyer — SECTUR Oaxaca / State Government
There are two sales phases for Palcos A and B:
Banamex exclusive pre-sale — starting May 15, 2026
▸Only for Banamex cardholders (credit/debit)
▸3 and 6 month installment options (no interest)
▸Only 15% of total capacity for Palcos A and B available in this phase
Palcos C and D: free. No pre-sale or online booking. Lines form at the Auditorio box office from 6 AM on performance days. No guaranteed entry: access closes when capacity is reached. Bring water, umbrella, and food.
Both phases: maximum 2 tickets per user.
▸No official Guelaguetza presence on Ticketmaster, StubHub, or TicketHub.
▸Do not buy tickets on social media, WhatsApp groups, or from street sellers.
▸No legitimate pre-sale exists through unofficial Instagram or Facebook sources.
How to spot a legitimate ticket:
▸Unique scannable QR code from SuperBoletos
▸Official Secretaría de Turismo Oaxaca logo
▸Ticket number includes specific section, row, and seat
▸Email confirmation upon registration
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2026 Delegations: Official Program
Official 2026 delegations program. Image: Oaxaca State Government
The official program shows all 4 performances across both Lunes del Cerro 2026:
▸Performance 1 — July 20, Morning (10:00 AM)
▸Performance 2 — July 20, Afternoon (5:00 PM)
▸Performance 3 — July 27, Morning (10:00 AM)
▸Performance 4 — July 27, Afternoon (5:00 PM)
Source: Official program published by SECTUR Oaxaca, May 12, 2026. Subject to change. Last updated: May 2026.
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Getting There: Safe Transport to the Auditorio
Oaxaca has very specific transportation regulations that confuse visitors. Read this before you arrive.
DiDi — The only app-based service operating legally
DiDi Taxi, available for Android and iOS
DiDi is the only app-based transportation service that operates legally in Oaxaca. Uber was banned by local taxi unions and no longer operates here.
▸Register your account and verify your payment card in advance (verification can take up to 24 hrs)
▸During Guelaguetza: high demand, surge pricing applies
▸Recommended: request DiDi 20–30 minutes in advance on performance days
BinniBus / CityBus — Public transit that works
BinniBus public transit bus in Oaxaca. Photo: Oaxaca State Government
Oaxaca's metropolitan collective transport system operates under the name BinniBus (also CityBus on some lines). Modernized in 2023 with new vehicles and a route-tracking app.
Cost: $8 MXN per ride. The machine does not give change — carry exact fare. Note: this may soon increase to $10 with the implementation of the BinniBus card payment system; as of this guide's publication it remains $8.
Taxis in downtown Oaxaca. Photo: imparcialoaxaca.mx
Oaxaca taxis do not use meters, so always ask the fare before getting in. If you're unsure of reference prices, check with tourism information modules at the zócalo or in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán church.
▸Taxi stands (paraderos) near markets and tourist sites are more reliable than street taxis
▸Reference fare centro to Cerro del Fortín: $60–$120 MXN
▸Do not board taxis without visible official identification
Walk up — For early risers and the fit
Staircase route from Calle Crespo: 15–20 minutes at a moderate pace. Free, no waiting for transport. Downside: July in Oaxaca can hit 30°C (86°F) before noon. If walking: water + sunscreen + comfortable clothing.
Hotel shuttle
Many hotels offer shuttle service on performance days (usually with an additional charge). Most convenient option for groups and families. Ask when booking.
Avoid: unlicensed taxis without official ID, "transfers" offered by strangers on the street or in Facebook groups. There is no Uber in Oaxaca.
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Where to Stay: The July Problem
Jalatlaco neighborhood, Oaxaca. Photo: mexicorutamagica.mxThe most important thing you'll read in this guide: book at least 6 months in advance.
If you're reading this in May or June and don't have accommodation yet, the most affordable and convenient options are already gone. There are still places available, but you'll pay significantly more.
July in Oaxaca is extreme high season. Historic center hotels raise rates 40–100% above normal. Some require minimum stays of 2 or 3 nights during Guelaguetza weeks.
Types of accommodation:
▸Boutique hotels (Jalatlaco, Centro, Reforma): $125–$400 USD/night. Book at minimum 6 months out.
▸Hostels and guesthouses: $20–$45 USD dorm / $40–$75 USD private room. The best ones fill up as fast as boutique hotels. Find on Hostelworld, Booking.com, Airbnb.
▸Airbnb / apartments (5+ day stays): $60–$150 USD/night for full apartment. Kitchen access, more space. Some hosts offer weekly discounts.
▸Adjacent neighborhoods (Trinidad de las Huertas, La Noria, Ex-Marquesado, 5 Señores): 10–20 minutes from centro by DiDi, 30–50% cheaper. Smart option if you plan to use transport.
If it's already June–July and you have no hotel:
▸Check Booking.com for cancellations with free cancellation filter
▸Search Facebook groups: "Expats Oaxaca", "Oaxaca Travel" — some locals rent rooms during Guelaguetza
▸Consider Etla (15 min by car) or Zaachila and commuting in daily
Official Guelaguetza 2026 Activities Program. Photo: State Government
The State Government publishes an official activities calendar from July 1 to 30 each year that goes well beyond the Cerro del Fortín shows. It covers gastronomy, arts, culture, and sports events throughout the city and the Central Valleys — neighborhood fairs, exhibitions, concerts, sports competitions, and community celebrations throughout the month.
Alternative Guelaguetzas: The Oaxaca Not in the Brochures
Xochimilco neighborhood in Oaxaca. Photo: foodandpleasure.com
There are smaller, more local events — many of them free. If the Auditorio isn't your scene, or you want to round out the experience:
Delegations Parade 2026
Guelaguetza 2026 Delegations Parade. Photo: State GovernmentJuly 18 & 25 · 6:00 PM · Fuente de las Ocho Regiones, Oaxaca City
Approximately 28 delegations participate in each of the two parades that wind through the historic center. The route departs from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones and is one of the best opportunities to see the regional delegations in motion — embroidered dresses, brass bands, and entire communities marching. Completely free.
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Guelaguetza Serrana 2026
Guelaguetza Serrana 2026. Photo: State GovernmentCapulálpam de Méndez, Sierra de Juárez
Floral Convite and cultural celebration featuring music, dance, and expressions from the mountain communities. Capulálpam is one of the most beautiful villages in the Sierra Norte — if you have the chance to combine the visit with an overnight stay, it's well worth it. Check the exact schedule on the event posters.
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July 19 — Guelaguetza of San Jacinto Amilpas
Guelaguetza 2026 San Jacinto Amilpas — Ninth Edition. Photo: State Government5:00 PM · "San Jacinto" Sports Center, San Jacinto Amilpas · Ninth Edition
Music, dance, and community identity expressions within the July celebrations. San Jacinto Amilpas is one of Oaxaca City's neighboring municipalities with the deepest cultural traditions.
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July 20 — Guelaguetza of Reyes Etla
Guelaguetza Reyes Etla 2026. Photo: State Government10:00 AM · Paraje Las Peñitas, Reyes Etla
Community celebration of culture and tradition, sharing music, dance, and regional pride. Reyes Etla is about 15 kilometers north of Oaxaca City in the Central Valleys.
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July 20 & 27 — Danny Xtë Suzën: Guelaguetza of San Antonino Castillo Velasco
Guelaguetza San Antonino Castillo Velasco 2026. Photo: State Government4:00 PM · Rotonda de las Azucenas, San Antonino Castillo Velasco · Two showsDanny Xtë Suzën brings together invited delegations to share dances, sones, traditional attire, and Oaxacan traditions. San Antonino is famous for its floral embroideries and white roses — the celebration carries that same spirit of community pride and beauty.
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July 26 — Guelaguetza Mágica 2026
Guelaguetza Mágica 2026. Photo: State Government12:00 PM · Artisan Market Esplanade, San Pablo Villa de Mitla
Music, dance, and expressions that define this Pueblo Mágico and its invited communities. Mitla is also home to the most important Zapotec-Mixtec archaeological site after Monte Albán — combine the Guelaguetza with a visit to the ruins. Colectivos from Central de Abastos.
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July 27 — Laanii Roo Xten Si Xte Zaallil
Guelaguetza 2026 in Zaachila. Photo: State Government1:00 PM · Villa de Zaachila · 64th EditionThe Great Festival of the Little Hill. A celebration of cultural richness, pride, and Zapotec community identity. Zaachila was the last capital of the Zapotec world, and every year it brings together Danza de la Pluma, regional music, and community pride. Colectivo from Calle Bustamante: ~$35–40 MXN, ~19 minutes.
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Guelaguetza Magisterial y Popular and other community celebrations
▸Guelaguetza Magisterial y Popular — July 21, 9:00 AM, ITO Stadium (Instituto Tecnológico de Oaxaca). Free. Blends Oaxacan tradition with the voice of social movements — a version the official program won't give you.
▸Convite Magisterial — July 19, 3:00 PM, route from Templo del Carmen Alto to the Zócalo. Free.
▸El Tule — has its own Guelaguetza with independent ticketing at guelaguetzadeltule.com. Check prices and dates there.
▸Cuilápam de Guerrero — near the Ex Convento de Santiago Apóstol; includes artisan fair and gastronomy.
▸Santa María Atzompa, San Martín Tilcajete — adjacent towns with their own celebrations.
Convites are festive parades that move through the streets of the historic center throughout July. Brass bands, people carrying elaborate headpieces (the "monos de calenda"), and entire communities march together. They're free and one of the most genuine experiences of the season.
Confirmed 2026 dates: July 1, 10, and 11.
July in Oaxaca is far more than the two Lunes del Cerro. Here's the full picture:
Convites — July 1, 10, and 11. Nighttime parades with brass bands and calenda floats through the historic center. Free.
Delegations Parade — July 18 & 25, 6:00 PM. ~28 delegations depart from the Fuente de las Ocho Regiones and march through the historic center. Free.
Donají... La Leyenda — July 19 and 26 (Sundays, projected dates). A theatrical performance at the Auditorio Guelaguetza based on the Zapotec legend. Confirm dates and ticketing with SECTUR.
Feria Internacional del Mezcal (FIMO) — July 17–28, Centro Cultural y de Convenciones de Oaxaca.
Poster for the 2026 Mezcal Fair. Art: Maestro Shinzanuro Takeda. Photo: Oaxaca State Government
The 2026 FIMO takes place at the Centro Cultural y de Convenciones de Oaxaca, running parallel to Guelaguetza. Opening ceremony: July 17 at 10:00 AM. Public access: daily 11:00 AM–10:00 PM. General admission: $80 MXN.
This edition features 400+ exhibitors and producers:
▸100 mezcal producers
▸208 artisans and craftspeople
▸14 coffee producers
▸24 agro-industrial sector representatives
▸16 craft beer producers
▸20 gastronomy exhibitors
A collective bar will feature special participation from the state of Chiapas.
Who should go: anyone interested in mezcal, gastronomy, or agave culture. Not just for experts — there are very accessible educational spaces.
Who should think twice: those traveling with young children or on a very tight budget (tasting cups add up fast).
Guelaguetza Serrana — Capulálpam de Méndez, Sierra de Juárez. Floral Convite with music and dance. Check event posters for exact times.
Guelaguetza San Jacinto Amilpas — July 19, 5:00 PM. San Jacinto Sports Center. Ninth Edition.
Guelaguetza Reyes Etla — July 20, 10:00 AM. Paraje Las Peñitas, Reyes Etla.
Danny Xtë Suzën (San Antonino Castillo Velasco) — July 20 & 27, 4:00 PM. Rotonda de las Azucenas.
Guelaguetza Mágica (Mitla) — July 26, 12:00 PM. Artisan Market Esplanade, San Pablo Villa de Mitla.
Laanii Roo — La Fiesta Grande del Cerrito de Zaachila — July 27, 1:00 PM. Villa de Zaachila. 64th Edition.
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The Water Crisis: Better to Know
Oaxaca resident receiving water from a supply truck. Photo: eluniversal.com.mx
This section exists because there's something real that doesn't appear in travel guides, and it can catch you off guard.
Oaxaca City has a structural water deficit. According to SOAPA (Oaxaca's Water and Sewage System), in 2026 the city has an available supply of 195 liters per second against an estimated demand of 1,100 liters per second. During high season, with 90,000+ additional visitors, the system is under maximum pressure.
In practice:
▸Many hotels and buildings have their own cisterns, refilled 2–3 times per week (no continuous flow)
▸Peripheral neighborhoods can go 3–4 days without running water
▸The historic center generally has better service, but is not exempt
▸In July the situation can worsen due to higher tourist demand
What you can do:
▸Always carry a refillable water bottle and fill it when you have access
▸Don't leave faucets running unnecessarily — locals will appreciate it
▸If the hotel announces a water cutoff day, plan your hygiene around it
▸Tap water in Oaxaca is not safe to drink. Locals brush their teeth with it without issues — we've been used to it our whole lives — but if you're visiting, your body isn't adapted. For drinking and cooking: bottled water or a quality filter (Berkey, Sawyer)
No one is going to judge you for knowing this. But knowing it helps you not be caught off guard — and makes you a more considerate traveler.
Source: SOAPA — Sistema Operador de Agua Potable y Alcantarillado de Oaxaca, 2026.
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Common Scams: What to Watch Out For
Oaxaca is a relatively safe city. But Guelaguetza draws people who take advantage of uninformed tourists. Some say those running these scams aren't even from Oaxaca — they come specifically to exploit the event.
Counterfeit or overpriced tickets: street vendors, WhatsApp or Facebook groups offering "tickets" at prices that sound reasonable. Risk: won't work at the turnstile, or you paid double the box office price. Solution: only SuperBoletos.com. Section C only at the official Auditorio box office."I can get you tickets" or take you to the Cerro: people offering private transport or ticket connections. Use DiDi, BinniBus, or an official taxi stand.
Street currency exchange: better-than-bank rates, counterfeit bills, rigged calculators. Only use visible casas de cambio with posted public rates, or ATMs from recognized banks (BBVA, Banorte, HSBC).
Food businesses without visible pricing: established and licensed venues are regulated and should have everything clearly posted — but surprises still happen, especially near the fair and Auditorio, where not every stall is a formal business. Even locals have been caught off guard thinking "they're just tacos, how expensive can they be" — and then the bill arrives. Always ask the price before ordering.
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Emergency Numbers and Useful Contacts
Tourist information and assistance point at the Oaxaca zócalo
▸Other nationalities: contact your country's embassy in Mexico City
911 operators have basic English. Say "English please" at the start of the call.
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Final Tips: What Locals Know
1. Arrive when the box office opens, not when the show starts. Palco C front rows disappear within 20 minutes — not an exaggeration.
2. The throwing moment — fruits, coffee, small regional gifts — happens at the end of each delegation's performance. If you arrive late and a performance is still running, you can still catch it.
3. The morning sun at the Auditorio is no joke. Paid sections have thatched palm roofs but they don't cover everything. Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are not optional.
4. Morning or afternoon: the morning has better temperature; the afternoon has better light for photos but more heat at the start and possible rain between 6–7 PM. Pick based on your priorities.
5. When the performance ends, the centro explodes. Pick where you're eating before leaving the Auditorio, or stay 45 minutes until the crowd thins out.
6. Don't leave at intermission. The program mixes well-known regions (Costa, Istmo) with gems that rarely get photographed (Cañada, Sierra Juárez). The best surprises often come last.
7. Bring cash. Vendors at the top of Cerro del Fortín selling tejate, tlayudas, and crafts don't take cards. ATMs in the centro run dry during high season.
8. Guelaguetza is a starting point, not the whole trip. July in Oaxaca is packed with convites, calendas, mezcal, music, and things that don't appear on any official program. If something doesn't appeal, there are alternatives — and if you miss them this time, now you know for your next visit. Also: bring a carrizo straw and learn to say "un mezcalito, por favor" — it opens more doors than any guidebook.
Above all: common sense. Things don't always work the way they do back home. Oaxaca is ordered chaos — it works, just on its own terms. Always look both ways.
Donají... La Leyenda: The Must-See Show of July
If the Lunes del Cerro is the heart of Oaxaca's July season, Donají... La Leyenda is its deepest soul. This production by the Ballet Folklórico de Oaxaca, directed by Fernando Rosales García, marks its 43rd edition in 2026 — a number that speaks for itself.
Official poster Donají... La Leyenda 2026 — dates, times and tickets
Official poster / Municipio de Oaxaca de Juárez · State Government of Oaxaca · 2026
What Is Donají... La Leyenda?
Donají was a Zapotec princess, daughter of lord Cosijoeza, taken hostage amid conflict between the Zapotec and Mixtec peoples. According to legend, when she was discovered trying to free her people, she was beheaded — and where her head fell, the pitiona flower bloomed, becoming Oaxaca's emblematic blossom.
The production weaves together folkloric dance, live music, theatrical lighting, and dramatic storytelling to recreate this tale of love, identity, and sacrifice. With hundreds of performers on stage and over four decades of artistic evolution, this is not a tourist show — it is a living piece of Oaxacan memory.
Donají... La Leyenda at the Guelaguetza Auditorium
Show photograph · Credit: Heraldo de México
2026 Dates & Schedule
Detail
Info
Performances
July 19 and July 26, 2026
Time
8:00 PM
Venue
Auditorio Guelaguetza, Oaxaca de Juárez
Artistic director
Fernando Rosales García
Edition
43rd edition
Tickets & Prices
Palco C and Palco D sections are free admission. Paid sections:
Section
Price
Palco A
MXN $450 + service fee
Palco B
MXN $400 + service fee
Online tickets are sold through Superboletos (sales opened June 9). Check availability before you go.
Buy tickets — Superboletos
If you plan to attend both Guelaguetza (July 20 or 27) and Donají (July 19 or 26), arrive at the Auditorium early on both days — free sections fill up fast.
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Want to see all July events in one place?
Check the full events calendar on Qué Onda Oaxaca — updated and organized week by week.
Also explore our Oaxaca travel guides to plan your visit better.
Delegations program: published by SECTUR Oaxaca, May 12, 2026. Ticket prices confirmed by SECTUR Oaxaca, May 2026. Banamex pre-sale starts May 15; regular sale June 1 at superboletos.com.
📷 Photography used for informational/curatorial purposes only. Images are not the property of the author or Qué Onda Oaxaca. Credits belong to their respective authors.
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