Xoxocotlán Cemeteries on Day of the Dead: How to Get There (2026)

How to Get to Xoxocotlán from Oaxaca City: The Cemeteries on Day of the Dead and Year-Round

It's 10 pm on October 31st and the panteón viejo of Xoxocotlán smells of copal, cempasúchil and freshly lit candles. A woman arranges pan de muerto on her mother's grave, a man pours mezcal into plastic cups, someone is tuning a guitar. Outside, a concert plays; inside, people talk in quiet voices. This is the night the dead return to Xoxo — and it's one of the most beautiful you'll experience in Oaxaca.

But first you have to get there, and more importantly, get back. Xoxo, as we call it here, is about 20 to 30 minutes from downtown, but on Day of the Dead the traffic, crowds and late-night return change everything. This guide covers that night and any other day of the year when you want to travel from the city to Santa Cruz Xoxocotlán.

Quick Summary

How to Get to Xoxocotlán from Downtown

First, the most important thing: almost no transport drops you off in the center of Xoxo. The bus, BinniBus and colectivos all leave you on the main highway, in front of Chedraui. From there you walk about 10 minutes. It's not complicated, but it's worth knowing in advance.

📍 Chedraui de Xoxocotlán · Guadalupe Hinojosa de Murat 215.

Option 1: Bus from near the Zócalo

This is the easiest option if you're staying in the Centro. Walk to the stop at Melchor Ocampo corner Vicente Guerrero, a few blocks from the Zócalo. Here's the stop on Google Maps.

• ▸Take route RC13 or RA08.
• ▸Costs $10. Bring exact change.
• ▸About 30 minutes, depending on traffic.
• ▸Ask the driver to drop you off in front of Chedraui.
• ▸Runs until 9 pm. Good for getting there, not for returning on Day of the Dead.

Option 2: BinniBus RT-01 from the Central de Abastos

The BinniBus is the state government's transport system: identifiable vehicles and fixed routes. The route that goes to Xoxo is the RT-01 Kayaal Yuroo (Viguera – Xoxocotlán).

• ▸Board at the Central de Abastos. Here's the BinniBus stop on Google Maps.
• ▸Also stops at the Parque del Amor stop.
• ▸Drops you at the same stop, in front of Chedraui.
• ▸Runs until 10 pm.
• ▸Note for the return: the BinniBus doesn't go into the Centro — it continues toward Viguera. Get off at Parque del Amor and take a taxi from there.

Option 3: Colectivo or bus from Parque del Amor

The entire street of Parque del Amor acts as a stop for buses and colectivos to Xoxo. Here are two spots to wait:

• ▸📍 Stop 1
• ▸📍 Stop 2, my favorite — more vehicles pass through.

Buses charge $10 and colectivos between $15 and $25, depending on the stand. A tip: pay attention. There are plenty of locals waiting, and if you're distracted you'll lose your spot. If you go around 6 pm, that's rush hour — be patient.

Option 4: Central de Abastos

The same route as Parque del Amor, but from its origin point. Wait there for a colectivo or bus that says Xoxo.

Option 5: DiDi

If you're traveling alone or as a couple, requesting a DiDi taxi is the most comfortable option. You pay what the app shows and it drops you as close as traffic allows. What about Uber? It was announced in Oaxaca in October 2026, but the Transportation Secretariat says it's not authorized, and unionized taxi drivers have threatened to stop those vehicles. Stick with DiDi. All the details on apps and taxis are in my transport guide.

Option 6: Hourly taxi

You hire a taxi that takes you, waits, and brings you back. It costs about $400 per hour per car, which can vary by season. On Day of the Dead it can only drop you nearby — due to congestion, parking near the cemeteries is not allowed, so the driver goes to find a spot and picks you up later. Agree on a time and meeting point, and ask for their WhatsApp. Going by your own car? I don't recommend it on Day of the Dead — there's nowhere to park near the cemeteries. The rest of the year, if you want to explore Xoxo, Arrazola and Monte Albán at your own pace, you can compare car rental prices in Oaxaca here.

From Chedraui to the Cemeteries: The Walk

From Chedraui, walk about 10 minutes toward the Xoxo plaza. There you'll find the community altar, perfect for your first photos, and sometimes live music.

📍 Parque de Xoxocotlán · next to the Banorte ATM, Morelos corner Genaro Vásquez.

Right there is where the path to both cemeteries begins. On Day of the Dead you'll find statues or exhibitions along the street, food and drink stands, and flower or sand tapestries, depending on how the town organizes that year. Walk slowly — the path itself is part of the experience.

The Panteón Viejo: Start Here

I recommend going to the panteón viejo first, also known as the panteón antiguo or de San Sebastián Mártir. Here it is on Google Maps.

It's smaller, older, and for me the one with the most soul. Inside is the Capilla de San Sebastián Mártir, with the year 1684 carved into its exterior. It's the only cemetery in Oaxaca with a colonial chapel inside. It was the town's first chapel and it's said that people were taught to read and write there. Earthquakes have damaged it and restoration work has been done, but it still stands, surrounded by graves dating back to the 19th century.

The panteón viejo has no more space for new graves. That's why the new one was opened.

The Panteón Nuevo

A couple of streets away is the panteón nuevo, which some call San Isidro or Mictlancíhuatl. Say "panteón nuevo" to anyone and they'll understand. Here it is on Google Maps.

It's larger and is where most families are. Getting from one to the other is very close, so don't worry about the transfer.

Day of the Dead in Xoxo: Which Night and What Time

The night is October 31st. That's the tradition: families come to decorate their relatives' graves and stay with them, some until the dawn of November 1st. It's said that night the angelitos — the children who have passed — arrive first and gather in the atrium, guided by candles, copal and crucecita flowers. When to arrive: the cemetery really comes alive around 10 pm, when families arrive with their food, flowers and music. Before that, there's not much going on inside. Outside though: music, comparsas in the street, people singing and drinking, flower arrangements, catrinas, exhibitions and concerts. My plan is to arrive a bit earlier, walk the stands with a beer or a small mezcal, and enter the cemetery once it's full of candlelight. How long: 3 hours is ideal. If you enjoy the concert outside, or the party and dancing, up to 4. It's worth going with some context: why the flowers are placed, what mezcal means in the ofrenda, the history of the panteón viejo. That way everything makes sense.

A fun fact: the night at Xoxo inspired scenes in Coco. But what you'll see here is not a movie — it's the life of a community.

How to Behave in the Cemetery

• ▸Walk respectfully between the graves. This is the families' night, not a film set.
• ▸Take photos discreetly. No flash, and if you want to photograph someone, ask permission first. Read the room: if a family is having a private moment, don't intrude.
• ▸If someone invites you to come closer, do. It's not wrong. They might offer you a mezcal, a piece of bread, or tell you about their loved one. It's actually a very joyful experience.
• ▸Dress modestly and don't paint yourself as a catrina to enter and vigil with the families. In my deep Day of the Dead guide I explain that debate well.

The Return: The Hard Part

Getting there is easy; getting back is another story. By the time the festivities are at their peak, buses are done for the night and likely minibuses too. Here's what I do:

1. Don't try to find transport at the cemetery entrance. There are too many people and too many cars. 2. Walk back to Chedraui, along the main highway. The return stop is on the other side of the road. 3. There you have three options: - Colectivo: on this date they run until 1 or 2 am. At that hour they charge as a "special trip," up to about $100 per person, but they drop you at your accommodation. - Street taxi: up to about $300 per car, also to your accommodation. Negotiate starting from that price. - DiDi: given the area and demand, they'll probably accept the ride, though the driver may ask for a bit extra. My honest recommendation: DiDi there and DiDi (or taxi) back from Chedraui.

Hourly Taxi vs. DiDi? Let's Do the Math

For a 3-hour night at Xoxo, the approximate cost per person:

How to read the table:

• ▸Traveling solo, the budget plan is by far the cheapest.
• ▸Group of 4, the balanced plan costs nearly the same as the budget option and saves you the hassle of the bus.
• ▸Hourly taxi is the most expensive, but it waits for you, you skip the return struggle, and it can take you to a comparsa afterward. If there are 4 of you and you want to keep the party going, it may be worth every peso.

Prices are approximate and go up on Day of the Dead. Use them to compare, not as fixed fares.

After the Cemetery: Go Find a Comparsa

Taxi drivers are great for this. After Xoxo there are usually comparsas in the Centro or surrounding neighborhoods — ask your driver, they'll know where. What's not worth it is trying to squeeze Etla or Huayápam into the same night: those muerteadas deserve their own night. The week's comparsas are on our events calendar.

And November 1st? I stay in the city: I walk through the Panteón General, Xochimilco or San Felipe and, most of all, I go to the Centro comparsas to dance, take photos and drink mezcal with people I've never met. If you want to experience a muerteada, read what I say about Etla in my deep Day of the Dead guide. The Panteón General is worth a visit. Also called Panteón de San Miguel, it's the oldest in the city, opened in 1829 during a smallpox epidemic and used again during the cholera outbreak of 1833. Its four arcaded galleries in Tuscan style hold niches where figures like Susana Juárez, daughter of Benito Juárez, and Macedonio Alcalá, author of "Dios nunca muere," rest. The 2017 earthquakes damaged it and restoration work has been done, but walking its vaulted halls by candlelight is another way to live these nights, without leaving the Centro.

☕ Did this guide save your night? I write from Atzompa, with no editorial sponsors. Buy me a mezcal — let's toast to the dead.

If You'd Rather Go with a Tour: Which One to Choose

If it's your first time, you have limited days, or you simply don't want to think about the late-night return, a tour takes care of everything. These are my recommendations based on what you're looking for:

Tight on time and want to experience everything without logistics? This 4-day Day of the Dead tour is the most complete: Oaxaca City center, pan de muerto painting in Mitla, chocolate and textiles in Teotitlán, marigold fields and a traditional home with its altar before heading to Xoxocotlán's cemetery on the 31st, and on November 1st the Atzompa archaeological site, alebrijes and a comparsa with tamales, chocolate and mezcal. I only recommend it if your days are truly limited — if you're staying longer, take it slowly. Getting a little lost is part of the trip.

Several of these tours also visit Atzompa, a more intimate and understated cemetery than Xoxo. If that's exactly what you're looking for — stepping away from the most crowded spots — this Day of the Dead tour of San Jacinto Amilpas and Atzompa cemeteries takes you to family vigils with traditional Day of the Dead food and ancestral mezcal. And if you'd rather go on your own, I explain how in my Atzompa guide.

The food on these tours is traditional: tamales, chocolate and bread. Don't expect elaborate dishes — here the ofrenda is simple things made with love. A note on the last tour. If this year you miss someone or carry something unresolved, building an altar can help you release it, even if you're not religious or not from here. I build an altar for my dad without being religious — it's just my own act. I tell you how to experience it with respect in my deep Day of the Dead guide.

Xoxo the Rest of the Year

Xoxocotlán isn't only about Day of the Dead. This is where Oaxaca's airport is located, and it's close to Monte Albán and San Antonio Arrazola, the alebrijes village that belongs to the same municipality. During Day of the Dead season, marigold fields also open for photos among the flowers.

To get around during the day, the same routes work: bus RC13 or RA08 from Melchor Ocampo, BinniBus RT-01, or a colectivo from Parque del Amor. And if you're traveling solo without luggage, DiDi Moto is the cheapest — I explain how it works in my transport guide.

Want to take a piece of Oaxaca home? Our little shop carries locally-made pieces. What you buy there keeps the cultural calendar free.

Tips for a Smooth Night

• ▸Bring small bills — $50 and $100. At 1 am nobody will break a $500.
• ▸Save the pins for Chedraui, the cemeteries and your hotel before you leave. Signal gets saturated.
• ▸Agree on a meeting point. The community altar at the plaza works well.
• ▸Don't leave anyone alone while others go look for transport.
• ▸Bring a jacket — it gets cold after midnight.
• ▸Eat something before or at the stands outside: tamales, chocolate, pan de muerto.

If you're concerned about safety in general, read my guide Is Oaxaca safe?.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Xoxocotlán from the Centro of Oaxaca City?

By bus RC13 or RA08 from Melchor Ocampo corner Vicente Guerrero ($10, until 9 pm), BinniBus RT-01 from the Central de Abastos or Parque del Amor ($10, until 10 pm), colectivo ($15–25) or DiDi. Almost all drop you off in front of Chedraui, a 10-minute walk from the center of Xoxo.

Which night is best to visit the Xoxocotlán cemeteries?

October 31st, when families arrive to decorate the graves. The atmosphere really picks up around 10 pm.

What's the difference between the panteón viejo and the panteón nuevo?

The viejo is smaller and older, with a chapel from 1684. The nuevo is larger and is where most families are. They're only a couple of streets apart.

How do I get back from Xoxocotlán in the early morning hours?

Walk to Chedraui. Colectivos run until 1 or 2 am (special trip up to $100 per person), taxis (up to $300 per car), or DiDi. The BinniBus ends at 10 pm and doesn't go into the Centro.

How much does an hourly taxi cost on Day of the Dead?

Around $400 per hour per car; can go higher during the season.

Can you take photos inside the Xoxocotlán cemetery?

Yes, discretely, without flash and by asking permission before photographing families.

Is Uber available for getting to Xoxocotlán?

Uber was announced in Oaxaca in October 2026 but is not yet authorized. DiDi is the better option.

In Xoxo, death isn't mourned alone: it's accompanied by flowers, mezcal, music and the whole family around a grave. You're a guest at the most important night of the year for this community. Arrive with respect, let them invite you in, and take your time getting home. You'll understand why we say here that the dead never quite leave.

More guides you might find useful

• ▸Day of the Dead in Oaxaca — Deep Guide — history, cemeteries, muerteadas, comparsas and respectful tourism
• ▸Oaxaca Transport Guide — DiDi, BinniBus, taxis, colectivos and bus terminals
• ▸How to Get to Monte Albán — all options, schedules and what nobody tells you
• ▸How to Get to Atzompa — free ruins, green pottery and its Day of the Dead cemetery
• ▸What to Do in Oaxaca — the full guide: markets, museums, tours and day trips
• ▸Is Oaxaca Safe? — neighborhoods, hours and what to keep in mind

☕ Did this guide save your night? I write from Atzompa, with no editorial sponsors. Buy me a mezcal — let's toast to the dead.

For this week's events, search "Qué Onda Oaxaca" or check our events calendar. Spotted a changed price or schedule? Write to us and we'll update it.

— mish Dary, Director · Qué Onda Oaxaca